In part, the inspiration for this gown came from Little Town on the Prairie by Laura Ingalls Wilder, which beautifully describes the
brown cashmere dress that Ma and Laura make for Mary for college, and even includes an illustration (by Garth Williams).  
"The gored skirt of the brown cashmere was smooth and rather tight in front, but
gathered full around the sides and back, so that it would be ample for hoops.  In
front it touched the floor evenly, in back it swept into a graceful short train that
swished when Mary turned.  All around the bottom was a pleated flounce.  
 The overskirt was of the brown-and-blue plaid. It was shirred in front, it was
draped up at the sides to show more of the skirt beneath, and at the back it fell in
rich, full puffs, caught up above the flounced train.  
 Above all this, Mary's waist rose slim in the tight, smooth bodice.  The neat little
buttons ran up to the shoft white lace cascading under Mary's chin.  The brown
cashmere was smooth as paint over her sloping shoulders and down to her elbows;
then the sleeves widened.  A shirring of the plaid curved around them, and the
wide wrists fell open, showing the lining of white lace ruffles that set off Mary's
slender hands."  
But I chose a slightly different color palate,
based on fabric that I had available.  My
mom had made a dress for herself out of
this brown-and-orange floral fabric in the
70s, and I thought that the scraps would
be perfect to make a Victorian doll gown.  
I was also inspired by a paper doll book
that I own, and especially one of the
dresses inside.  
So one bodice is floral, with a lower neckline and shorter sleeves, and the overskirt is worn draped in the back to make a bustle.